So here I am with what should have been my first Vaporflask DNA 40 clone review. Before I had even considered the Vaporflask clone made by Kangxin, it was the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA 40 that I had been waiting for, even as I had eventually given up on it after waiting 3 months for its arrival. Does the DNA 40 clone chip work? How does it compare to the Kangxin Vaporflask V3? Is it the same DNA 40 clone chip? These are some of the questions that I hope to answer in this product review.
Before I go further there is something that needs clarification. Shortly after the first samples for the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask clone hit the market, reports of another a 1:1 Vaporflask clone surfaced and was being sold under the brand of Sunlay. Let me clarify that the “Sunlay 1:1 Vaporflask” is the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask, and that Sunlay is a reseller of this particular device, not the manufacturer of it.
Also, within the last week a “Vaporflask V4” has surfaced on Alibaba and DHgate, albeit sporting copied photos of the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask clone. Unfortunately the practice of using copied/stolen photos to sell a product in China is very common. The only thing that I can say with certainty at this point is that based on the published specs and photos of the “Vaporflask V4”, that this is also the Waidea Vaporflask. This is most likely an attempt by resellers to distinguish the Kangxin V3 Vaporflask from the 1:1 Waidea Vaporflask for the benefit of sales. In other words it is just “China Game”.
The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA 40 clone featured in this review was provided by Waidea Times for the purpose of this product review. The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask is packaged in a cardboard gift box, and it includes the Vaporflask clone, a usb charging cord, a QC card, and a photocopied user manual. The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask retails for $69.99-$74.97usd.[box type=”shadow” align=”aligncenter” width=”600″ ]
Where to buy the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA40:
WAIDEA 1:1 VAPORFLASK SPECIFICATIONS:
- Brand: Waidea Times
- Type: variable wattage/ temperature protected
- Material: 6061 Billet Aluminium
- Connection threading: 510 (fixed center pin)
- Battery compatibility: dual 18650 (can use single 18650)
- Diameter: 22mm
- Height: 91mm
- Width: 61mm
- Weight: 169grams (254.6 gram with batteries)
- Top Mounted LCD Display (0.69″)
- Onboard Buttons
- Temperature Limit 200F ~ 600F
- Uses Temperature sensing wire (Ni200)
- Output Power: 1 – 40 Watts
- Output Voltage: 1 – 9Volts
- Buck/boost conversion
- Input Voltage: 3.1-4.3 volts
- Input Current: 0.5-16 amps
- Atomizer Resistance (Standard Kanthal Mode): 0.16 ohm min-up to 2.0 ohms max.
- Atomizer Resistance (Temperature Sensing Mode): 0.1 ohm min-up to 1.0 ohm max.
Even before I would receive the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask in hand, I had expected it to be of better quality than the Kangxin Vaporflask V3, and I was not disappointed. Unlike the Kangxin Vaporflask V3 which is a clone made from a clone, the Waidea Vaporflask was made using a sample of the authentic Vaporflask, and with very good results.
I received the black Waidea Vaporflask with a brushed, anodized finish which is matte in tone, and is identical to the original Vaporflask DNA 40 v2.1 of the same color. Being a clone of the authentic version 2.1, the Waidea Vaporflask has the updated stainless steel 510 connection, and the revised bottom engravings which no longer use the version or serial # engraved on the bottom.
When I look at the quality of the material used for the main body, the buttons, top plate and 510 connection, I can’t find any fault with it. However, on one side near the fire button there is a spot of visible white residue which looks like a sealant used between the top plate and main body. It is not hot glue or anything similar, it is something much thinner in texture that dries with a white finish. I point this so out so that Waidea knows to be more mindful during the assembly of what is otherwise a really nice looking, and well made device.
The other thing that I noticed is that the wattage up/down buttons do not lay as flush to the body as the authentic Vaporflask V2.1 does, but I am not really bothered by this because it is easier to depress both buttons simultaneously when accessing Temperature mode. The wattage up button does protrude slightly more than the wattage down button, which I believe is by design.
There were many would be owners of this Waidea Vaporflask that were looking forward to a clone being made with the updated stainless steel 510 connection. However, there was also some disappointment once they realized that the Waidea Vaporflask was constructed with a fixed 510 center pin, instead of a spring loaded 510 as found on the authentic Vaporflask.
I asked Waidea about this choice and I was told that during the testing phase of the prototype for their clone they found that the fixed 510 pin was more stable in terms of connectivity and Temperature mode. This may also explain the long production delay of the Waidea Vaporflask clone which was originally scheduled for a January 2015 release.
Of course with the use of a fixed 510 connection there is going to be some concern amongst users regarding the flush mounting of atomizers. Below I photographed 3 different atomizers with varying 510 pin lengths mounted to the Waidea Vaporflask. So far I have not experienced more than a .5mm gap with any atomizer, and I have used approximately 5 different atomizers with this device (Typhoon, Russian 2.0, Kayfun V4, Quasar RDA, and Kraken).
A .5mm gap is barely perceptible in ordinary viewing, so the fixed 510 connection is of no issue for me. The one thing to watch out for with this fixed 510 pin is that you have to make sure that your atomizer is screwed all the way in before use. If your atomizer is backed off by even a hair the device will consistently ask you “new coil up/same down” every time you try to fire the device.
This happened to me only once within the first couple of days of having the Waidea Vaporflask, and once I snugged up my atomizer it never happened again.
Even as Waidea said this would be a 1:1 clone, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the battery caps are perfectly calibrated to line up without manipulation. However, the threads one of my battery slots had not been completely cleaned of the anodized coating, so again this is something for Waidea to watch out for as these devices complete assembly.
Aside from that, the threads are well machined on both the battery slots and the brass battery caps.
I did not experience any issues with battery fitment using Samsung 25-R batteries, they literally slide in and out of the device. I have read a report from one user saying that his batteries (same type) were a tight fit on the Waidea Vaporflask that he received. It is important to remember to use batteries that are rated for more than 15A when using this, or any of the Vaporflask clones.
The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask does come with a usb charge port however, I find that the charge indicator light is very difficult to see during charging. I have had to turn the lights out in the room and tilt the device in order to see the charge indicator light. The USB charge port charges at a rate of .5A, so errr .. it takes a really long time to recharge two 2500mah 18650. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 hours to recharge, so you may want to just take these babies out for charging.
WAIDEA 1:1 VS KANGXIN V3 COMPARISON
When looking at and judging the Kangxin Vaporflask V3 in and off itself, for the most part I was happy with the build quality of it. However, when compared to the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask clone things start to look a little different. Aside from being closer to a 1:1 in terms of appearance, construction/ finish, the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask just feels like the better made device all around. So much so that I am surprised to see it retailing at the same price point of the Kangxin Vaporflask V3.
Here I could see and feel the difference between cloning a device from the original article, and cloning a device from another clone (Hao Sheng Vaporflask V1).
In the photo comparison below, the reality of the Waidea Vaporflask being the superior device in terms of fit and finish is made very clearly. I didn’t even realize that the bottom engravings of the Kangxin Flask were as off as they are until I had the Waidea Vaporflask to compare it to.
If you look at the battery slots and end caps on the Kangxin Vaporflask you can see that the machining is just not up to the level of the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask. And it is not just the outer appearance of the devices that separate them, it is also the internals of the two devices. The Kangxin KX-40D chip is basically free floating inside the device on a bed of hot glue, while the Waidea DNA 40 clone chip is installed using a cradle.
Unfortunately, at the time that I am writing this review I did not have permission to post the photos of the internals for the Waidea Vaporflask. However, based on these two photo collages alone I think I have cleared up any talks about the possibility of these two Vaporflask clones being made in the same factory. They clearly are not.
Before I delve further into the function of this device, I must say for the record that applying the term “Temperature Control” to any DNA 40 style chip is completely inaccurate and a misrepresentation of what this technology is intended to do.
The DNA 40 IS NOT a Temperature Controlled chip board, it cannot cause an atomizer to fire at a specific temperature, which is what “temperature control” would imply. The DNA 40 chip is a “temperature limiting” technology, that can throttle back power output once the board senses that your atomizer has reached the temperature limit you have set for it, hence “Temperature Protected” not controlled.
Waidea maintains that they have made their own DNA 40 clone chip however, the screen display, basic menu functions and button commands are exactly the same as the Evolv DNA 40 and Kangxin KX-40D chip. If you are new to DNA 40 Temperature Protected devices, please refer to my review of the authentic Vaporshark rDNA or the Kangxin Vaporflask for details on the basic menu functions of the DNA 40.
There are two noticeable differences between the Waidea Vaporflask DNA 40 chip, and the Kangxin Vaporflask KX-40D chip. The first of which is that the Waidea Vaporflask reads “DNA 40” at start up, whereas the Kangxin Vaporflask reads “KX-40D”. The Waidea Vaporflask does have a slight 1 second firing delay which I have timed several times for accuracy. However, the Waidea Vaporflask does not have a “deep sleep mode”, where the device has a 2-3 second firing delay after 2 or more hours of inactivity like the Kangxin Vaporflask does. Regardless of how long the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask has been inactive, it still has the same 1 second firing delay.
The Waidea DNA 40 clone chip does have flash memory, and buck/boost conversion. While I have used this device in Temperature mode the majority of the time since I’ve had it, I have also used it with Kanthal builds as well, and it does function as it should. I have also tested the chip to see if there is any sort of firing cut off after 10-15 seconds, and there is not. I have fired the Waidea Vaporflask for as long as 25 seconds without cut off.
While in TP mode, the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask performs exactly as the authentic DNA 40 and Kangxin Vaporflask do. The Waidea Vaporflask does appear to read atomizer resistance more accurately than the Kangxin Vaporflask does. I have only one dedicated atomizer with a Ni200 build in it (Kayfun V4), and the Waidea Vaporflask reads the resistance the same as my Ohm Meter, whereas the Kangxin Vaporflask usually reads .01-.02 ohms below it.
Being that Temperature Protection is a relatively new technology, we are all in a process of understanding how these Temperature Protected chip boards behave, and why. I recently had an exchange with a member of Vaping Underground, and he had mentioned that his Kangxin Vaporflask never hits “Temperature Protected” mode while he is using the device, but rather it just throttles back power output which he can see on the display screen.
What I have figured out through constant use and observation is that while in TP mode the device will initially vary wattage output in an effort to keep the coils temperature below the temperature limit that has been set. However, if and when the temperature of your coil has actually reached the temperature limit you have set, that is when “Temperature Protected” will appear on the display screen. Depending on the resistance of your coil, wattage setting, temperature setting, and even the e-liquid you are using, it is very possible that your coil will never reach the temperature limit that you have set for it, and therefore you will not see “Temperature Protected” flash across the display screen.
The only thing this means is that with your current build, wattage setting, etc, that you are vaping below your chosen temperature limit.
The following are the instances where any one of my TP device have actually gone into “Temperature Protected” mode:
- Too low temperature setting relative to the atomizer resistance and wattage setting.
- Excessive chain vaping or consistently long drags (more than 15 secs)
- Gunky, caramelized coils
There is also the myth that Temperature Protection means the end of gunked up coils, which is not true at all. I have found that when using sweet, dessert type heavy VG e-liquids with Ni200 builds in TP mode that my coils absolutely gunk up. This would also be a good time to mention that the best way to clean and dry burn Ni200 coils is to turn OFF temperature protection, because you need the coils to be hot enough to glow in order to burn off the gunk.
Finally, I did test the temperature limiting of the Waidea Vaporflask by setting the device to 450F/32W and firing freshly juiced coil/wick until it ran dry to see if the cotton was burned. The Waidea Vaporflask did pass my amateur TP test as shown in the photo below.
While Waidea Tech may have taken a lot longer to get their version of the Vaporflask out to the market, I feel that they have made the better Vaporflask DNA 40 clone. With two Vaporflask clones with DNA 40 clone chips that for the most part perform identical to each other, the only other aspect to look at here is the overall build quality between the two devices. In terms of build quality the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA 40 clone wins easily. I must also say that the fixed 510 connection of the Waidea Vaporflask has not panned out to be a negative based on my real world use of the device.
Had there not been the slight appearance of a sealant around the top plate, and some anodized coating left on one of my battery slots then I would have rated the build quality of the Waidea Vaporflask as a 10 without hesitation. The same would be true for the area of Performance if there wasn’t a 1 second fire delay. However, with both the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask and Kangxin Vaporflask V3 retailing at the same price point, I think the decision between which Vaporflask clone to get is a no brainer — unless you must have a red or blue Vaporflask that is.