Waidea Vaporflask DNA40 Clone Review

Waidea flask header photo

So here I am with what should have been my first Vaporflask DNA 40 clone review. Before I had even considered the Vaporflask clone made by Kangxin, it was the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA 40 that I had been waiting for, even as I had eventually given up on it after waiting 3 months for its arrival. Does the DNA 40 clone chip work? How does it compare to the Kangxin Vaporflask V3? Is it the same DNA 40 clone chip? These are some of the questions that I hope to answer in this product review.

Before I go further there is something that needs clarification. Shortly after the first samples for the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask clone hit the market, reports of another a 1:1 Vaporflask clone surfaced and was being sold under the brand of Sunlay. Let me clarify that the “Sunlay 1:1 Vaporflask” is the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask, and that Sunlay is a reseller of this particular device, not the manufacturer of it.

Also, within the last week a “Vaporflask V4” has surfaced on Alibaba and DHgate, albeit sporting copied photos of the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask clone. Unfortunately the practice of using copied/stolen photos to sell a product in China is very common. The only thing that I can say with certainty at this point is that based on the published specs and photos of the “Vaporflask V4”, that this is also the Waidea Vaporflask. This is most likely an attempt by resellers to distinguish the Kangxin V3 Vaporflask from the 1:1 Waidea Vaporflask for the benefit of sales. In other words it is just “China Game”.

The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA 40 clone featured in this review was provided by Waidea Times for the purpose of this product review. The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask is packaged in a cardboard gift box, and it includes the Vaporflask clone, a usb charging cord, a QC card, and a photocopied user manual. The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask retails for $69.99-$74.97usd.

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Where to buy the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA40:


Waidea flask collage 1


  • Brand: Waidea Times
  • Type: variable wattage/ temperature protected
  • Material: 6061 Billet Aluminium
  • Connection threading: 510 (fixed center pin)
  • Battery compatibility: dual 18650 (can use single 18650)
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Height: 91mm
  • Width: 61mm
  • Weight: 169grams (254.6 gram with batteries)


  • Top Mounted LCD Display (0.69″)
  • Onboard Buttons
  • Temperature Limit 200F ~ 600F
  • Uses Temperature sensing wire (Ni200)
  • Output Power: 1 – 40 Watts
  • Output Voltage: 1 – 9Volts
  • Buck/boost conversion
  • Input Voltage: 3.1-4.3 volts
  • Input Current: 0.5-16 amps
  • Atomizer Resistance (Standard Kanthal Mode): 0.16 ohm min-up to 2.0 ohms max.
  • Atomizer Resistance (Temperature Sensing Mode): 0.1 ohm min-up to 1.0 ohm max.


Even before I would receive the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask in hand, I had expected it to be of better quality than the Kangxin Vaporflask V3, and I was not disappointed. Unlike the Kangxin Vaporflask V3 which is a clone made from a clone, the Waidea Vaporflask was made using a sample of the authentic Vaporflask, and with very good results.

I received the black Waidea Vaporflask with a brushed, anodized finish which is matte in tone, and is identical to the original Vaporflask DNA 40 v2.1 of the same color. Being a clone of the authentic version 2.1, the Waidea Vaporflask has the updated stainless steel 510 connection, and the revised bottom engravings which no longer use the version or serial # engraved on the bottom.

Waidea flask collage 2

When I look at the quality of the material used for the main body, the buttons, top plate and 510 connection, I can’t find any fault with it. However, on one side near the fire button there is a spot of visible white residue which looks like a sealant used between the top plate and main body. It is not hot glue or anything similar, it is something much thinner in texture that dries with a white finish. I point this so out so that Waidea knows to be more mindful during the assembly of what is otherwise a really nice looking, and well made device.

The other thing that I noticed is that the wattage up/down buttons do not lay as flush to the body as the authentic Vaporflask V2.1 does, but I am not really bothered by this because it is easier to depress both buttons simultaneously when accessing Temperature mode. The wattage up button does protrude slightly more than the wattage down button, which I believe is by design.

Waidea flask collage 3

There were many would be owners of this Waidea Vaporflask that were looking forward to a clone being made with the updated stainless steel 510 connection. However, there was also some disappointment once they realized that the Waidea Vaporflask was constructed with a fixed 510 center pin, instead of a spring loaded 510 as found on the authentic Vaporflask.

I asked Waidea about this choice and I was told that during the testing phase of the prototype for their clone they found that the fixed 510 pin was more stable in terms of connectivity and Temperature mode. This may also explain the long production delay of the Waidea Vaporflask clone which was originally scheduled for a January 2015 release.

Waidea flask collage 4

Of course with the use of a fixed 510 connection there is going to be some concern amongst users regarding the flush mounting of atomizers. Below I photographed 3 different atomizers with varying 510 pin lengths mounted to the Waidea Vaporflask. So far I have not experienced more than a .5mm gap with any atomizer, and I have used approximately 5 different atomizers with this device (Typhoon, Russian 2.0, Kayfun V4, Quasar RDA, and Kraken).

A .5mm gap is barely perceptible in ordinary viewing, so the fixed 510 connection is of no issue for me. The one thing to watch out for with this fixed 510 pin is that you have to make sure that your atomizer is screwed all the way in before use. If your atomizer is backed off by even a hair the device will consistently ask you “new coil up/same down” every time you try to fire the device.

This happened to me only once within the first couple of days of having the Waidea Vaporflask, and once I snugged up my atomizer it never happened again.

Waidea flask collage 5

Even as Waidea said this would be a 1:1 clone, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the battery caps are perfectly calibrated to line up without manipulation. However, the threads one of my battery slots had not been completely cleaned of the anodized coating, so again this is something for Waidea to watch out for as these devices complete assembly.

Aside from that, the threads are well machined on both the battery slots and the brass battery caps.

Waidea flask collage 6

I did not experience any issues with battery fitment using Samsung 25-R batteries, they literally slide in and out of the device. I have read a report from one user saying that his batteries (same type) were a tight fit on the Waidea Vaporflask that he received. It is important to remember to use batteries that are rated for more than 15A when using this, or any of the Vaporflask clones.

The Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask does come with a usb charge port however, I find that the charge indicator light is very difficult to see during charging. I have had to turn the lights out in the room and tilt the device in order to see the charge indicator light. The USB charge port charges at a rate of .5A, so errr .. it takes a really long time to recharge two 2500mah 18650. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 hours to recharge, so you may want to just take these babies out for charging.

Waidea flask collage 7


When looking at and judging the Kangxin Vaporflask V3 in and off itself, for the most part I was happy with the build quality of it. However, when compared to the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask clone things start to look a little different. Aside from being closer to a 1:1 in terms of appearance, construction/ finish, the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask just feels like the better made device all around. So much so that I am surprised to see it retailing at the same price point of the Kangxin Vaporflask V3.

Here I could see and feel the difference between cloning a device from the original article, and cloning a device from another clone (Hao Sheng Vaporflask V1).

Waidea flask collage 8

In the photo comparison below, the reality of the Waidea Vaporflask being the superior device in terms of fit and finish is made very clearly. I didn’t even realize that the bottom engravings of the Kangxin Flask were as off as they are until I had the Waidea Vaporflask to compare it to.

If you look at the battery slots and end caps on the Kangxin Vaporflask you can see that the machining is just not up to the level of the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask. And it is not just the outer appearance of the devices that separate them, it is also the internals of the two devices. The Kangxin KX-40D chip is basically free floating inside the device on a bed of hot glue, while the Waidea DNA 40 clone chip is installed using a cradle.

Unfortunately, at the time that I am writing this review I did not have permission to post the photos of the internals for the Waidea Vaporflask. However, based on these two photo collages alone I think I have cleared up any talks about the possibility of these two Vaporflask clones being made in the same factory. They clearly are not.

(Click photo to Englarge)
Waidea flask collage 9


Before I delve further into the function of this device, I must say for the record that applying the term “Temperature Control” to any DNA 40 style chip is completely inaccurate and a misrepresentation of what this technology is intended to do.

The DNA 40 IS NOT a Temperature Controlled chip board, it cannot cause an atomizer to fire at a specific temperature, which is what “temperature control” would imply. The DNA 40 chip is a “temperature limiting” technology, that can throttle back power output once the board senses that your atomizer has reached the temperature limit you have set for it, hence “Temperature Protected” not controlled.

Waidea maintains that they have made their own DNA 40 clone chip however, the screen display, basic menu functions and button commands are exactly the same as the Evolv DNA 40 and Kangxin KX-40D chip. If you are new to DNA 40 Temperature Protected devices, please refer to my review of the authentic Vaporshark rDNA or the Kangxin Vaporflask for details on the basic menu functions of the DNA 40.

There are two noticeable differences between the Waidea Vaporflask DNA 40 chip, and the Kangxin Vaporflask KX-40D chip. The first of which is that the Waidea Vaporflask reads “DNA 40” at start up, whereas the Kangxin Vaporflask reads “KX-40D”. The Waidea Vaporflask does have a slight 1 second firing delay which I have timed several times for accuracy. However, the Waidea Vaporflask does not have a “deep sleep mode”, where the device has a 2-3 second firing delay after 2 or more hours of inactivity like the Kangxin Vaporflask does. Regardless of how long the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask has been inactive, it still has the same 1 second firing delay.

The Waidea DNA 40 clone chip does have flash memory, and buck/boost conversion. While I have used this device in Temperature mode the majority of the time since I’ve had it, I have also used it with Kanthal builds as well, and it does function as it should. I have also tested the chip to see if there is any sort of firing cut off after 10-15 seconds, and there is not. I have fired the Waidea Vaporflask for as long as 25 seconds without cut off.

Waidea flask collage 10


While in TP mode, the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask performs exactly as the authentic DNA 40 and Kangxin Vaporflask do. The Waidea Vaporflask does appear to read atomizer resistance more accurately than the Kangxin Vaporflask does. I have only one dedicated atomizer with a Ni200 build in it (Kayfun V4), and the Waidea Vaporflask reads the resistance the same as my Ohm Meter, whereas the Kangxin Vaporflask usually reads .01-.02 ohms below it.

Waidea flask collage 11

Being that Temperature Protection is a relatively new technology, we are all in a process of understanding how these Temperature Protected chip boards behave, and why. I recently had an exchange with a member of Vaping Underground, and he had mentioned that his Kangxin Vaporflask never hits “Temperature Protected” mode while he is using the device, but rather it just throttles back power output which he can see on the display screen.

What I have figured out through constant use and observation is that while in TP mode the device will initially vary wattage output in an effort to keep the coils temperature below the temperature limit that has been set. However, if and when the temperature of your coil has actually reached the temperature limit you have set, that is when “Temperature Protected” will appear on the display screen. Depending on the resistance of your coil, wattage setting, temperature setting, and even the e-liquid you are using, it is very possible that your coil will never reach the temperature limit that you have set for it, and therefore you will not see “Temperature Protected” flash across the display screen.

The only thing this means is that with your current build, wattage setting, etc, that you are vaping below your chosen temperature limit.

The following are the instances where any one of my TP device have actually gone into “Temperature Protected” mode:

  • Too low temperature setting relative to the atomizer resistance and wattage setting.
  • Excessive chain vaping or consistently long drags (more than 15 secs)
  • Gunky, caramelized coils

There is also the myth that Temperature Protection means the end of gunked up coils, which is not true at all. I have found that when using sweet, dessert type heavy VG e-liquids with Ni200 builds in TP mode that my coils absolutely gunk up. This would also be a good time to mention that the best way to clean and dry burn Ni200 coils is to turn OFF temperature protection, because you need the coils to be hot enough to glow in order to burn off the gunk.

Finally, I did test the temperature limiting of the Waidea Vaporflask by setting the device to 450F/32W and firing freshly juiced coil/wick until it ran dry to see if the cotton was burned. The Waidea Vaporflask did pass my amateur TP test as shown in the photo below.

Waidea flask collage 12


While Waidea Tech may have taken a lot longer to get their version of the Vaporflask out to the market, I feel that they have made the better Vaporflask DNA 40 clone. With two Vaporflask clones with DNA 40 clone chips that for the most part perform identical to each other, the only other aspect to look at here is the overall build quality between the two devices. In terms of build quality the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA 40 clone wins easily. I must also say that the fixed 510 connection of the Waidea Vaporflask has not panned out to be a negative based on my real world use of the device.

Had there not been the slight appearance of a sealant around the top plate, and some anodized coating left on one of my battery slots then I would have rated the build quality of the Waidea Vaporflask as a 10 without hesitation. The same would be true for the area of Performance if there wasn’t a 1 second fire delay. However, with both the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask and Kangxin Vaporflask V3 retailing at the same price point, I think the decision between which Vaporflask clone to get is a no brainer — unless you must have a red or blue Vaporflask that is.

Waidea flask final photo


  • ​1:1 Build Quality/Finish
  • check
    ​More stable connectivity (fixed pin)
  • check
    More accurate resistance meter


  • ​1 second fire delay

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Where to buy the Waidea 1:1 Vaporflask DNA40


48 thoughts on “Waidea Vaporflask DNA40 Clone Review”

  1. As always, an excellent review! I now have to decide if I want something as big as a Vaporflask. I really like the ZNA form factor and size, maybe someone will make an SX Mini clone with temp control soon … If not, then likely it will be the Vaporflask for me.

    1. Thank you DevAuto! :) .. Yeah the good thing is that right now there are a few solid choices that you could make for a new regulated device. Go with whatever would really suit your style of vaping. The whole TP thing is still new, and we still have a lot to learn about it.

    2. I don’t think you’ll see any clones of Yihi products any time soon. They have a solid handle on keeping control of their products, and a Chinese player infringing on another Chinese player is a different ballgame than a Chinese player doing the same thing to a non-Chinese company.

      1. Agreed .. Yihi is not playing, besides I can’t see any company accurately cloning the SX 350 mini chip. Although I have learned to never underestimate China. :D

  2. Thanks Nicole, whole lotta people been waiting for this review.

    My Kangxin Flask purchased from 3FVape had the up/down buttons fall inside the housing, I guess to be expected when hot glue was the only thing securing them. Sent a video of this to 3FVape and they agreed to replace the device (and allowed me to keep the defective one).

    Fortunately, they also started stocking the Waidea version, so for a $2 upcharge, they sent me the Waidea one instead of another Kangxin. Hard to beat customer service like that (and folks, lets not abuse that, or it’ll go away post haste!).

    Anyway, mine should be here this week if all goes well, and you’ve calmed any doubts I had about the Waidea version, which is a good thing. Especially with all the conflicting data coming from them back in January.

    1. Hey Croak! Oh that is awesome that 3fvape sent you the Waidea version, I hope that you like it. As always though the QC is going to be a make it or break factor with either version. When demand gets high we usually start to see more reports of QC defects, so I hope that Waidea can keep theirs to a bare minimum as I expect them to see a spike in sale within the coming days/weeks.

      1. Well, they went about it the right way, with a proper sled for mounting the board and buttons, and no hot glue spotted anywhere yet, based on some pictures of the internals floating around on ECF.

        There’s still the question of the board reliability, but thats a risk you take even with “genuine” products.

        I will say my Kangxin fired like a champ and temp limiting worked as expected, albeit without the advantage Evolv has by having a functional “preheat”.

        And I suspect that’s where part of that fire delay on the Waidea and Kangxin (it has one too) is coming from, during that period an Evolv board would be boosting wattage to get the coil hot quick, whereas the ChiNA40 boards just sit there, then fires at normal voltage. There’s dead code there, methinks, from a less-than-perfect reverse engineering job by whoever the source of these boards is (and I suspect it’s the same source for Kangxin and Waidea).

        Anyway, us early adopters of the first wave of ChiNA40 devices will be laughing about how primitive the boards are in about six months. Yihi is already proving that, based on initial consumer reports about the SX Mini M class. :)

        1. My suspicions about one source for the board itself is the same as yours however, it is clear that each Co tweaked their boards individually. And I agree, it is still early so we can’t yet determine the long term reliability of these ChiDNA boards, but so far they have beat the pants off Evolv’s first step out the door.

          You know, I was going totally pass on the new SXmini M class being that I have the S class and still love it. But after seeing that the new body is all plastic looking, and hearing the feedback on the SX 350J chip, my interest has kinda been sparked. :p

  3. Paul (Nailz)

    I had the waidea flask on order from focal, as they didn’t have the black kangxin with usb charging at the time, 2 days later they got the kangxin in and I swapped my order over to the kangxin, which I now regret, I have no complaints so far with the kangxin flask, but now knowing it is full of hot glue, has not made me confident it will last over time.

    Using hot glue to hold buttons in place is not a good idea, over time that glue is going to loosen up, and already seen reports of people having their buttons coming loose on the kangxin flask, but we move through mods so fast, so maybe it will last till I get the next best thing :)

    Great review as always Nikki ;)

    1. Hi Paul :) Yes I did see where you had posted on the forums about switching Flasks. Well, my Kangxin still works fine, but as you said having so much hot glue holding the internals together is not really ideal for the longevity of the device. When you made your comment about switching I didn’t have the Waidea flask in hand yet, otherwise I would have told you to switch back.

      You personally know that I was waiting for the Waidea flask long before the Kangxin, but I totally understand why you switched. A lot of people were put off about the fixed 510 connection until real user feedback came in about it .. live and learn right? Thanks as always Paul :)

  4. Great job on a very highly anticipated review! I believe I speak for a vast majority of the Vaping Community when I say that your efforts and expressed opinions are greatly appreciated, even if there are times where it may not always feel that way! Don’t ever let the actions of a few discourage you from expressing your opinions and always know that the vast majority of us will always have your back and support your efforts!

    Thank you for yet another job well done!

    1. Aww Tpat you are so awesome, thank you kindly for these words. I should also thank you for being the “spark” that got this product review underway. I appreciate you Tpat, sincerely. :)

  5. Hi Nicole, Really glad I came across your review as I am expecting DHL to drop off my Waidea VF3 at some point today and now looking forward to it.

    1. Oh how nice! I hope that everything turns up well for you, and that you can have the same experience as I did. Good luck with it dear :)

  6. Hello Nicola,

    I know you’re not allowed to post photos of the Waidea internals but can you tell us if there’s a “cradle” for the board inside?
    Thanks mate!

      1. Nicole,any idea where to purchase the correct sled tray to mount new authentic DNA 40 watt T.C. board in a new Kangxin??? I have pics. of inside and i want it to be solid and not all hot glue!!!! The clone board is faulty and it does not even say anything on startup on display so i have no clue what board is even in it??? So frustrating and not right that China does crap like this…I would appreciate any help you or anyone can give??? Thank you, Tab

        1. Hi Tab .. No, I do not personally know where you can buy a cradle for the Kangxin Vaporflask. But you can search the “Vaporflask V3 Clone” thread on ECF in the APV/Temperature Control section of the forum. A user there has installed authentic DNA 40’s in his Kangxin Vaporflask. I have heard that recent batches of the Kangxin Vaporflask have had a lot of QC issues, and I heard this from vendors and consumers.. sucks but its typical in China once demand becomes overwhelming for them.

  7. Oh God , this is getting way too sappy for me , lets forgo the “i appreciate you” and “spark” stuff lol , i got real close to spraying my monitor , all is OK now though.

    I don’t feel the need to tell Nicole she did another bang up job with the review because she already knows but i should say congratulations on another bang up job on the review Nicole , just wanted to mention that in case you weren’t aware.

    Since you mentioned the SX mini i wanted to say i read Nathans post about the new model being made of zinc alloy , i believe the original was all stainless .

    Anyways keep up the great work my friend .

    VH fan

    1. LOL, Chris come here so I can give you a Pow Pow, you need it! :p Thank you kindly my dear, I appreciate it.

      Nathan was asking me about the new M class SXmini, and while I did realize that there have been some changes to the body, I didn’t know any thing about zinc alloy though. I will investigate. Yes, the S class SXmini is constructed from a stainless steel body with an aluminum frame. I am not a fan of zinc alloy, so that would be very disappointing, especially for $200.

      1. Nicole , no chance i’m coming anywhere close to you , getting my ass kicked is not one of my faves to be honest but i agree i do probably deserve it.

        Regarding the zinc alloy , i can’t confirm , i only read that it was made of zinc alloy from Nathans writeup about it on this site .

        I would be interested in knowing though as i bet some others would as well , that would be a big disappointment for a mod in this price range.

        Thanks for all you do .

        1. I just checked and read: Stainless steel with high quality zinc/brass construction?? Not sure which aspect of the device uses which material though.

  8. Thanks so much for the review Nicole. Made the order for the waidea before your review came out. Was a lil worried but your review made it all better. I got my kangxin but they sent me the wrong one. Loved that the waidea made the buttons look so much better. Had issues with the kangxin

    1. You are welcome Robert. :) I really do hope that the Waidea Vaporflask works out better for you to make up for your troubles with the Kangxin Vaporflask. ;-)

  9. You mention cleaning the coils by getting them red hot, I thought that nickel at 650 started producing a toxic chemical?

    Isn’t this a bad idea?! I just make new coils…


    1. I have not heard any thing about what you are saying regarding Ni200 wire and temps over 650F. Do you have any credible source of information that you could link to regarding what you have said? I don’t believe anything that I “hear” unless there is a credible source of information backed up by tests. This community is sometimes prone to exaggeration and misinformation, so we have to be careful about what we put out there, especially if it is only “hearsay” from an unverified source.

      1. FireSBurnsmuP

        I haven’t been able to find evidence to verify the toxic chemical thing, although Ni(CO)4 (Nickel Tetracarbonyl) is very dangerous. Ni(CO)4 has an instantly fatal toxic concentration at 30ppm, which is astoundingly small. It requires temperatures above 122°F (50°C), which are obviously common, but also requires the presence of CO (Carbon Monoxide) to be formed, which I’m willing to offer the (NOTE) conjecture that CO isn’t often formed in e-cigarettes, although someone should figure out if and how it is possible so that we can keep ourselves safe.
        I’m calling out right now: Someone with some dilligence, an eye for grains of salt, and more time than I have available: please take this up and research. Someone getting their MS in Chemistry? Make it your thesis. The world needs to know, and if enough of us work at it, we can figure it out.

        However, Ni-200 wire will drastically change at 600°F (315°C) because the Carbon in the alloy will precipitate out of the alloy, causing the material properties of the wire to change dramatically. The sources I’ve seen have stated that it just shouldn’t be used above 600°F, and Ni-201 should be used in its stead.

        I’m guessing that Ni-201 and Nichrome won’t work with TP, though, if it is designed to use Ni-200. Their resistivities change slightly differently at different temperatures, which would result in inaccurate use of the temperature protection circuit, and probably unexpected results.

        Anyway, this was my quick 2 cents on the topic, since I had heard the same rumours, but had previously had them debunked or something and thought you guys would appreciate the input.

        Manufacturer Summary Info: http://www.megamex.com/nickel_200_201.htm
        Detailed info on Ni-200 Wire: http://specialmetals.com/documents/Nickel%20200%20%26%20201.pdf
        MSDS (generic, for Ni Alloys): http://www.alstom.com/Global/US/Resources/Documents/MSDS/Nickel%20Alloys.pdf
        Wikipedia: (someone more prudent than me should verify their sources)

        1. FireSBurnsmuP, while you’re correct the results would not be accurately displayed using different types of wire the difference should be repeatable, therefore if you find it displays 30° low you can then compensate for the difference.

  10. Awesome review as always. I’ve been on the fence about this mod, but may decide to finally pull the trigger. Can’t beat it for the price. Size wise do you find this mod too bulky? I have a vapor shark dna 40 and love the form factor…would love to own another dna 40 lbut may wait to see your review on the yihi sx mini m class. Keep up the great work!

    1. Thank you very much! The Vaporflask does have some width to it but I would not describe it as bulky. For sure its a wider grip than the Vapor shark, but its ergonomics plays well to the hand none the less.

  11. Question when i go to to the site to order on the bottom of the flask there is no longer the engraving saying vapor flask is that new?

    1. I think that you would have to contact the website to the link you clicked and address that question directly to the vendor selling the item.

      1. I think he is talking about the link in the review on where to buy the Vaporflask. He is right, the pics no longer show the Vaporflask Logo on the bottom like your pictures do. I could have sworn it was there the other day when I ordered mine, but now it isn’t … Could they have stopped putting that logo on them between the time they sent yours and the time they hit Focale?

        1. Again, that question should be directed to Focalecig if that is the case. I did not receive this Vaporflask from Focalecig, so I have no idea what is going on with their inventory.

  12. natsukashii-ne

    Great review Nicole — I jumped the gun and got a Kangxin VF a while back (with USB charging) and you’re right on the money with your review comparing the two. I kind of wish I’d waited.

    However, I did notice one tiny error — you said the Kangxin VF reads resistance off by 0.1-20 ohms, but your picture shows it reads off by 0.01-02 ohms, which is a BIG difference. Awesome reviews, as always, but you might want to correct that one small issue.

    1. Hi, and thank you. Yes, I did notice that error regarding the resistance when I was previewing the content, but somehow forgot to correct it. Will do .. and enjoy your Flasks.

  13. Awesome.. thanks for the great review. One question.. did you ever fit a Subtank (Mini) to it? I’m wondering if there’s a gap. How about any other RDAs (specifically a Derringer)?

    I’m thinking I might grab one of these.

    1. Hi .. I didn’t use it with the Subtank Mini, but I have used it with the Subverter Mini that I just reviewed, and the Delta and Artic tank and they all sit flush. In fact, I have never had more than a near invisible .5mm gap for any atty that I have used. Most sit flush though .. may try google for more feedback specifically with a Subtank Mini? Thanks for your comments.

    2. FireSBurnsmuP

      I got my black Waidea a few weeks ago, and as far as gaps are concerned, half of my (admittedly limited number of) attys have a noticeable gap.
      Here’s the run down:
      – Aqua v2 clone (focal, I’ll figure out which if someone’s interested): 1mm gap
      – Orchid “v7” clone (focal): .5mm gap
      – Nimbus clone (local shop): <.1mm gap (barely noticeable)
      – Orchid v4 clone (focal): .25mm is quite noticeable. However, YMMV and I’m sure not everyone is as anal about this as I am. :p

      I’m not about to contest what everyone else has said about their attys sitting flush, but I can say that it seems that my luck’s not as good as yours.

    3. My Russians sit flush, but my SubTank does not. Thankfully it is a minimal gap, and almost unnoticeable, but there is a gap. Performance is good enough that I am willing to overlook it … TC is PHENOMENAL! .1 coil in a Russian is UNREAL!

  14. Excellent review, thanks. I’ve just bought one of these but having read your review and looked at the photos I realise that the display on mine is upside down!! Is it a simple job to swap around or should I go back to the store where I bought it?

    1. There is an easy fix … 5 clicks to lock the device, then push and hold both the “up” adjustment button AND the “fire” button. This will switch between “left” and “right” modes. HTH!

      1. Thanks for replying. Actually I did discover while waiting for my question to get approved but was getting stumped because each time I tried it it would flash up Right Mode. Then I discovered by holding for about 10 seconds (or so it seemed) it would then switch to Left Mode. My previous DNA30 didn’t have this feature!

  15. Wow, ha ha ha, Another great review as usual my dear brilliant Nicole, Queen of all things VAPE,
    Sorry I’m late as usual, but just happened to bumble upon this review after looking at SE Box, Uh sorry I mean Vapor Flasks NEWest attempt using Yihi now and I’ll tell you I just had to crack up, seems the only thing they have done smart lately is selling off part to VaporShark who told me that once they get them they are dropping the price which they did LOL and, VF smartly changing chips to YiHi,
    So I’m somewhere a minute ago looking at this new version of the VF called Project sub ohm Flaskman..LOL Flaskman, ha ha ha, I should be called Flaskman instead of dumb ass for paying so much for that mod, like 6 times I think expecting different results, oh boy where’s my medication?
    Ok, Yihi smart move, 100w great, but then I get down to the reviews, ha ha, and well it seems VF has the same old problems as I had once with a gun metal top cap being half way installed, hum I think I know someone who used a picture of that in a VF clone review??
    So this new authentic Flaskman review and it’s still $300 and the guy gives it 5 stars even after writing this..LOL
    First, I would like to say this model is both strong and well made. The materials are top notch, the sx350j Chip is a beast and handles both my Aqua V2 and my Omertia with ease. The memory modes are wonderful, the buttons are very crisp, and the display is fantastic. My only advice is to check the tightness of the screws and the areas where the top and bottom plates were connected. I started getting random ohm spikes and upon inspection found a couple of the top screws were loose. Upon further inspection, i noticed the contact areas weren’t exposed properly, so i sanded them and re-tightened the screws. It is amazing what this did for the mod, as my ohms now hold steady and they match the readings on my fluke meter. Thanks again VaporDNA for providing me another awesome mod!
    Bye the way Dear Nicole that is one awesome review and I am actually stunned stupid by their cloning as I do know my authentic VF’s UNFORTUNATELY and like no other idiot I know anyhow, this clone looks really awesome, same screws and same crappy box that the authentic comes in and same colored USB cord and same styled landing pad, wow, Now that’s cloning to the max. Amazing review Nicole Thank You.!

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